Serendipity sometimes seems like destiny. I had stumbled into this idyllic town on a recommendation from a host from Airbnb and somehow capped off a perfect side trip with one of the best meals I have eaten in years in a place called Compartir.
Maria, my host in Barcelona, recommended a trip to Figueres and the nearby seaside town Cadaques. My wife had already gone back to the UK so I was looking to extend my exploration further afield in Catalonia. A consensus of voices suggested a visit to the Costa Brava for its beautiful coastline and casual atmosphere and good Catalonian cuisine. The Teatro Museu Dali, founded by Salvador Dali himself and his former home in Cadaques, given my interest in the surrealist artist, made this was a perfect side trip.
Often, the best accommodations and deals are found in the spot, especially in smaller towns with locally run establishments. There is a risk of being shut out are forced to pay a very high rate, but it is low season in Spain so I took the risk.
When I arrived, I checked a map on the wall at the train station, which listed hotels and set off for one I previously researched on Tripadvisor. The hotel was away from the center of town. A couple, perhaps in their early 30’s, looking like seasoned budget travelers, stood beside me studying the map. The womanpointed and lept towards the map, “There it is. Plaza Inn.” It was one of only two hotels on the map given as many as three stars. Sometimes, the best course of action is to follow someone who has info you don’t have. They discussed their walking route, as I took their unintended advice and hopped in a cab to the Hotel Plaza Inn.
Beating them to the hotel, I was greeted by a lovely and cheerful young lady who offered a room for 45euro per night, which was about 15 euro less than the out-of-the-way place I couldn’t find. The room was attractive and clean with a comfortable queen sized bed, nice bathroom, a small fridge with complimentary water and a large balcony with a table seating and a hammock. The hotel also has a rooftop deck, where every Saturday night, guests are invited to a barbeque. I missed that but was quite pleased with my choice. Best of all, it was a two minute walk to the Dali Museum.
After a wonderful and inexpensive Catalonian meal at a nearby restaurant, I got a good night sleep. The next morning, I arrived at the Teatro Museu Dali shortly after it opened. Dali has always been one of my favorite artists. To me, his work is surreal yet relatable, like someone sharing their dreams with you. Yes, weird things happen in dreams but we all have them and can relate to the odd relationships and juxtapositions that occur in them.
The museum was loaded with paintings, sculptures, jewelry and other oddities created by Dali and other artists inspired by him. There were numerous sketches and minimalist paintings, which provided insight into Dali beyond his more provocative surrealist work. His wife Gala appears prominently throughout his work as well.
By the time the big crowd showed up I had finished my tour of the museum and was on a bus making hairpin turns across the mountains to Cadaques. My calm reflection interrupted the four or five times the driver slammed on the breaks angrily honking his horn as the road wasn’t wide enough for the bus to make the turns without encroaching oncoming traffic. Not in a million years would I drive this road myself.
Cadaques is a postcard set in a bay along the Mediterranean Sea with a mountain backdrop creating a natural barrier between it and hordes of traffic and development. The tiny town was quiet and breezy with a light stream of mostly French tourists gliding along narrow streets, the seaside and dotting small rocky patches of sand. It was warm enough as the sky was clear and the sun reflected off the white washed buildings to feel the mood of summer.
After a nice walk around the bay, I found another great deal at a wonderful hotel called Hotel Llane Petit. Overlooking the bay, I opted for a room without a view with a king sized bed. The room was modern, clean and minimalist. A full breakfast was provided for the low season discounted price of 58 euro.
I checked in, put on my flip-flops and ventured out for a more thorough investigation of the town. You can’t walk for too long in a place like Cadaques without being tempted to stop for ice cream or tapas or a glass of wine. My eyes followed a sign that read “Enoteca,” anticipating Italian food, I found some intriguing Catalonia specials of the day.
A very enthusiastic and assuring young server named Julie recommended I try the cannelloni. One was filled with a mix of chicken, pork and beef and the other a mix of duck and foie gras. I had both and discovered the delights of the region bordering France and Spain. I inquired about the wine to which my server responded with glee, “You must try our own wine. We own a restaurant, hotel and only vineyard in Cadaques.” Julie’s boyfriend’s family owned the business and she told the story of the Martin Faixo Bodega.
Many years ago, Cadaques was flush with vineyards when suddenly a disease killed all the vines. Since then, olive orchards replaced vineyards. Until finally, the grandfather of the current owners replanted vines which today produce absolutely wonderful wine. I order a glass of white … and then another. It was one of those perfect moments in life the view, the food, the mood. Moments like these are almost always unexpected. The moment was sublime as I sat by the sea in tiny town trapped in time, the world perfectly calm, drinking what for me was an excellent glass of wine costing all of 2.80 euro. It got better.
I asked Julie if I needed a reservation to visit the home of Salvador Dali, the top attraction in Cadaques. I needed to go the following morning before heading back to Barcelona in the afternoon. She said yes and offered to call for me. After several minutes, she came back to my table and informed me that the Dali home was booked for the next five days… but she was able to get me in.
Now I was set, nothing to do but relax. I shared my very positive review of the food and wine with Julie. To which she replied, “Yes, there are very good restaurants in Cadaques. There is one that I think might be the best in the world the world.”
What? Say Again. Here in Cadaques?
“Yes, Compartir is the best. Do you know El Bulli?”
Yes. I do.
“You should go there.”
I read an article in the Easy Jet magazine on the flight to Barcelona about how El Bulli, formerly considered the best restaurant in the world, and now closed is currently the most influential restaurant on the planet as it is now an institute of gastronomy. Two chefs trained at El Bulli opened Compartir in Cadaques.
Suddenly, I had a new goal. Although, I was a bit apprehensive that such a restaurant would be way out of my price range. Julie gave directions. It was only a five-minute walk. I stopped by to scout it out. They weren’t open and the place didn’t look like it would be open anytime in the near future, but the menu posted outside reflected moderate prices.
After a very quiet and relaxing night, I ate everything at the at the hotel’s breakfast buffet. It was another postcard worthy day. I walked along the waterfront, through the narrow streets, up and down steep hills to the home of Salvador Dali.
Visitors are allowed into the home in small batches. The inside of the house is small relative to the outside spaces and is filled with a broad range of interesting artifacts owned by Dali and his beloved wife Gala.
There was nothing in the home that seemed strange as some might expect given Dali’s peculiar artwork, unless you consider a penis-shaped pool strange. There are dedicated areas for entertaining, work and private life. Comfort and simplicity prevail throughout the home. A disparate array of objects, some religious, some representing nature and others of sentimental value flavor the home. Salvador and Gala apparently lived a simple, comfortable and entertaining life together in Cadaques.
The outdoor spaces cascade upward as the house runs up the side of a hill facing the bay. These spaces were built for entertaining to be sure, but as I sat down and looked toward the sea, I could see in my mind Dali paintings, the same sky I was viewing appearing prominently in his work. I sat on a long stone bench facing the bay, a spot Dali most certainly spent many hours, in a beautiful place bound by sea, sky and mountains facing the mysteries and randomness of life while reveling in the simplicity and joy of it all.
Sean is wandering around again... 